How To Winterize An RV: An Easy 13-Step Checklist for Safer Winter Storage

The winds of winter are blowing, friends. The skies are changing… RV camping season is drawing to a close…

And if you want the next spring trip to cruise smoothly into gear, you MUST know how to winterize an RV the right way. It’s the only way to safely store your RV over the winter.

There are a lot of maintenance migraines you’ll endure in your RVing career. However, none will kick your ass quite like the RV winterization process (and, later, the dewinterization process). It’s a long and tedious chore – both pros and newbies all feel the same pain.

But that’s exactly why you need this step-by-step guide for winterizing your RV, as penned by a seasoned pro! I’ve put together this easy checklist for winterizing motorhomes and trailers so you can get the whole mission done without losing your sanity.

This is exactly how to winterize an RV…

But First, What Does “RV Winterization” Mean?

Ok, so first we need to define terms, as there seems to be some confusion over what it means to winterize your RV. Now, to be clear—

Winterizing a camper of any sort does NOT mean preparing it for winter living. It means preparing it for winter storage.

We do this so that our RV stays in an ideal condition for the next camping season. Leaving a rig unwinterized, improperly stored, and decaying is a bad idea any time of year, and especially terrible through the extreme cold of harsher winter months.

For optimal storage, you need to disconnect the RV’s various systems and batteries, load up with antifreeze, clean the rig for storage, etcetera. This is how you achieve safe winter storage of an RV, but you won’t find yourself doing anything that prepares you for actually living in your rig through winter. (Such as installing RV skirting solutions, for example.)

That’s it: that’s the whole skinny of what winterizing your RV actually is! And dewinterizing a camper just means taking that whole process and reversing it when the snows thaw again.

So basically, if you came looking for information on how to prepare your winter RV living, you’ll have to read our separate guide on the topic. But if you’re looking for a convenient RV winter storage checklist to run through, you’re in the right place!

Essential Materials and Supplies for Winterizing a Camper

But before we get to the easy steps to success, we need to talk about what tools you need to prep your RV for winter storage. Let’s talk essentials:

• Antifreeze: Duh. Antifreeze does exactly what it implies: it keeps your RV’s plumbing, pipes, and water tanks from freezing. More specifically, you want non-toxic RV or marine antifreeze, which is designed specifically for these water systems. For medium-sized RVs, two to three gallons is a good benchmark for how much antifreeze you’ll need.
• Water Pump Converter Kit: This connects your RV’s water pump to a jug of antifreeze before pumping it directly into your water system. You can winterize an RV’s water tanks without it, but it’s a pain and potential mess.
• Wrenches, Screwdrivers, Bucket, Towels: A robust set of tools is basically one of the top accessories for RVing, so this is rather obvious. But really, you should always have a general tool kit onboard your RV, and you’ll definitely need one for winterizing it.
• Bypass Valve or Kit: The water heater bypass valve (or bypass kit) lets you redirect antifreeze around the water heater instead of filling the whole tank. Some RVs may already have one pre-installed. Technically, you can winterize without a bypass kit, but doing so wastes a huge amount of time, money, and antifreeze. So if your RV doesn’t have one, install it!
• Caps or Plugs: Last but not least, you use caps or plugs for sealing the drains of your tanks and water heaters, so that antifreeze doesn’t leak out from these drain points.

Once you’ve gathered all of these supplies, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get to work.

RV Winterizing Supplies – Our Top 4 Picks

Need any of the bits and pieces we mentioned before winterizing your RV? Then grab our preferred solutions below before you get to work!

Image	Product	Features	Interested?
	Splash RV Antifreeze	1-gallon Rated to -50°F Designed for RVs	Buy on Amazon
	Prostormer Tool Kit	259-piece High-quality steel All-in-one solution	Buy on Amazon
	Camco Pump Converter Kit	Brass 3-way valve Easy install Camco Bypass Kit-compatible	Buy on Amazon
	Camco Water Heater Bypass Kit	8″ nylon hose Permanent install Camco Converter Kit-compatible	Buy on Amazon

The Process: How to Winterize an RV in 13 Easy Steps!

Below, in an efficient order, I’ve laid out the instructions for winterizing RVs of most standard setups. Skipping even a single one out can result in freezing pipes, blowing out your RV’s water lines, stuffing up the batteries or electricals, or even just mold-city.

Winterizing an RV ain’t fun, but we only gotta do it once a year… Let’s dive in!

Step 1: Disconnect All External Power Sources and Water Supplies

The first step is preparation. You can’t go performing surgery on a patient while they’re still conscious and wearing their pyjamas. Much the same, you can’t operate on your RV until you put it to sleep.

We’ll start by disconnecting all the things that have kept your RV so darn livable over the past summer!

Step 2: Remove and Bypass Any RV Water Filters (Inline or Canister-Style)

Next, you need to remove and bypass your RV’s inline water filters so your system won’t freeze or clog in winter temperatures. By now, your RV’s water supply should be shut off and depressurized, but ensure you check the faucets for any final pressure.

For this next part, you need to be careful: gently unscrew the water filter’s housing and remove the filter cartridge. These two parts are easily scratched and damaged, so it’s imperative that you handle them with care.

Now that the filter cartridge is removed, it’s up to you to decide whether you want to reuse it. At RV Properly, we recommend doing things properly and scrapping it for a brand new cartridge. But if you do decide to keep it, clean it, dry it COMPLETELY, and then store it in an airtight bag.

Lastly, we’ll bypass the water filter:

1. If your RV utilizes a canister-style filter, it will either have a built-in bypass valve in the plumbing or a manufacturer-supplied threaded bypass plug that replaces the filter.
2. If your RV uses a disposable inline filter (like the popular blue Camco type), you simply remove it for winter – there is no bypass to turn on.

Step 3: Drain and flush the black, gray, and fresh water tanks

Next, we need to winterize your RV’s holding tanks, which means we first need to drain them.

Before anything else, attach your sewer hose to the RV’s outlet and secure the other end into the dump station inlet. Only once your sewer hose is properly connected should you touch any tank valves.

Now, put on gloves (or don’t, if you’re into that sorta thing…), and follow the steps below for each type of tank. This prevents cross-contamination and ensures everything drains properly.

• Black Water Tank: Open the black tank valve and let it empty completely. Once drained, use your RV’s black tank flush port (if equipped) to rinse the tank until the water runs clear before closing the valve.
• Gray Water Tank: Much like the black tank, open the gray tank valve to drain it fully. Doing this tank after the black tank helps rinse out the sewer hose.
• Fresh Water Tank: Locate the fresh tank drain valve (which is not part of the same sewer system). Open the valve and let the fresh water tank drain completely before closing it again.

Once all three holding tanks are drained, rinse your sewer hose, disconnect it, and store it safely. This prevents odors and keeps everything ready for spring. (Alternatively, if you’ve used the current system for a while, you could consider throwing it away now and investing in a brand new sewer hose kit before the next RVing season!)

Finally, drain your low-point drains (hot and cold) to remove any remaining water from the plumbing system. These are usually the last bit of water hiding in your lines; clearing them now prevents freezing damage later.

Step 4: Drain the water heater

Now we need to winterize your RV’s water heater, which is drained separately from the rest of the system.

In almost all RVs, you’ll access it from the outside – look for a rectangular, vented metal panel on your rig’s exterior. Open that panel to reach the drain plug and pressure relief valve. (If you have a tankless water heating system in your RV, skip this step and follow the manufacturer’s winterization instructions instead.)

Now, before you remove anything, open a hot water faucet inside the RV to relieve pressure. This prevents scalding water from spraying when you remove the plug.

Next, locate the drain plug or anode rod:

• Suburban heaters use a metal anode rod
• Atwood heaters use a plastic drain plug

Carefully remove the plug with a socket wrench (NEVER pliers), and let the hot water tank drain completely. Once empty, use a water heater rinser wand (or a quick burst of water from a hose) to flush out sediment until the water runs clear.

Finally, install your water heater bypass if your RV doesn’t have one pre-installed to ensure RV antifreeze doesn’t fill the water heater tank in the next steps.

Voila! That’s it – you’ve settled the water heater.

Step 5: Drain and Blow Out the RV’s water lines

Now that your RV’s tanks and filters are done, it’s time to drain the water lines! Start by opening every faucet in the RV, including the sinks, shower, toilet valve, and the outside shower. This breaks the vacuum and enables the water system to drain properly.

Next, you’ll need to locate your RV’s low point drains (which are usually two capped or valved lines hanging beneath your rig). Open both low point drains and let all the water run out, and then close the low point drains again once the flow slows to a drip.

For extra peace of mind, you can also use compressed air and a blowout plug to push out any leftover water. Attach the plug to the city water inlet, set your compressor to about 30–40 psi, and then open each faucet one at a time until only air comes out to blow out your RV’s water lines. (But ensure your water heater is bypassed before using compressed air!)

Finally, when everything is drained, close all the faucets. This prepares the plumbing for the next step: the antifreeze!

Step 6: Bypass the RV’s water heater

This step is crucial: it stops RV antifreeze from filling your water heater tank. Without it, you’re looking at gallons of wasted product and a headache to fix later.

For this step, I’m assuming you’ve already installed a bypass kit (or have one pre-installed). Just as a reminder, while you can winterize your water heater tank without a bypass kit, it’s such a sanity-saver that it’s essentially a non-negotiable must-have for the RV life.

By now, you should have already drained your RV’s hot water tank. So next, you need to find the water heater bypass valves inside your rig. They’re usually located on the back of the heater, behind an interior panel, or inside a cabinet.

Most RVs use a simple 1-valve, 2-valve, or 3-valve bypass setup. Just turn the valves to the bypass position in accordance with your RV’s instruction manual.
If your RV instead uses a threaded bypass plug, remove the filter or housing connection and install the plug.

Once the heater is fully bypassed, antifreeze will flow directly into the RV’s plumbing lines without ever entering the heater tank… saving you 6–10 gallons of wastage!

Step 7: Install a converter kit and turn on the RV’s water pump

Next, it’s time to head over to your RV’s on-board water pump. If your pump setup already has a built-in winterization siphon, you can skip installing the converter kit and simply switch the siphon valve to the winterize position.

But if you’re using a water pump converter kit, there are a couple of extra steps to take. First, attach the kit’s hose to the inlet side of the water pump and make sure the fresh tank drain is closed so the pump doesn’t suck air. Then, place the end of the kit’s hose inside your jug of RV antifreeze.

Finally, turn the water pump on only once the hose is fully submerged in antifreeze; this lets the pump draw pink fluid straight into your plumbing.

Step 8: Pump antifreeze into the RV’s Water Lines and Fixtures

Now it’s time to pump antifreeze into the RV’s plumbing to winterize it. (We haven’t covered all aspects of antifreeze in this article. However, if you want to learn more about specific antifreeze products, I’ve sourced an excellent guide on Camping World on the topic!)

With the pump running and the intake hose submerged in antifreeze, go through your RV and open each faucet one at a time, starting with the fixture farthest from the pump.

1. Open the cold side first until pink fluid comes out, then close it.
2. Repeat with the hot side.

Don’t forget these fixtures either, as they freeze easily:

• Outside shower
• Toilet flush valve
• Bathroom sink
• Kitchen sink
• Shower/tub
• City water inlet (press the check valve briefly to get a splash of pink)
• Washing machine valves, dishwasher, or ice-maker***

Keep going until every water fixture is running solid pink. If you run dry, simply swap the antifreeze jugs as needed – just turn the pump off, switch the container, and turn the pump back on once the hose is submerged again.

And then when finished, just turn off the pump! Your RV’s water system is now fully protected for winter.

***(If your RV has an ice maker, dishwasher, or washing machine, follow the appliance manufacturer’s winterization instructions. These systems often have internal valves, pumps, or solenoids that need draining or filling with antifreeze independent of the RV’s other water lines. Make sure their water supplies are shut off and that each appliance’s drain line or trap is protected for freezing temperatures too.)

Step 9: Flush the RV’s toilet until you see antifreeze

Ok… You know how you dropped all that cash to get one of the best RV toilets you could? Well, that’s why we need to give the toilet a little extra TLC when winterizing it with antifreeze.

But instead of running faucets this time, you press the flush pedal and let the toilet run until you see solid pink come through. Once the pink flows steadily, give it an extra second to make sure the entire flush valve is protected.

And don’t forget: RV toilets don’t have a tank like household toilets! The flush valve and the line feeding it are what you’re protecting here.

Step 10: Pour a cup of antifreeze down each sink’s drain and into the toilet

To protect your P-traps from freezing, pour about one cup of antifreeze down every drain in the RV:

• Kitchen sink
• Bathroom sink
• Shower or tub drain
• Toilet bowl (a small amount keeps the seal lubricated)

This keeps the traps from freezing and prevents sewer gases from creeping up during storage.

Step 11: Conduct Your Final System Checks

Before moving on to cleaning your RV and prepping it for storage, it’s important to conduct a final round of system checks. This ensures that the RV is fully sealed and protected for the winter months, so there are no nasty surprises when it’s time to dewinterize your rig for camping season.

Here’s what you gotta do:

• Confirm the water heater is still in bypass mode and that the drain plug or anode rod is securely in place.
• Verify that all faucets and fixtures are closed, including the outside shower and toilet flush pedal.
• Turn the water pump off (and unplug the water pump converter kit if you haven’t already).
• Check that the low point drains are closed after draining but before adding any antifreeze.
• Press the city water inlet check valve briefly to verify that a bit of antifreeze came through.
• Ensure the fresh water tank drain is closed so no pests or debris can enter.
• Confirm all P-traps have antifreeze (sinks, shower, toilet bowl seal, etc.).
• Give one quick look at every fixture (kitchen, bath, shower, outdoor shower, toilet, washer hookups if present) to ensure it’s running solid pink.

Step 12: Clean and inspect the interior and exterior of the RV

With the RV’s water system all winterized, the last thing to do is to prep the rig itself for long-term storage. Start with cleaning the RV’s interior:

• Remove all food.
• Wipe down every surface.
• Vacuum floors.
• Empty all cabinets and drawers.
• Clean the refrigerator and freezer thoroughly, remove the shelves, and leave both doors propped open so moisture doesn’t build up.
• Open interior cabinets slightly to help airflow.
• Place a few moisture absorbers around the RV if you’re in a humid climate.
• And set your RV up for pest protection; don’t use mothballs in your RV as they’re toxic and stinky, but you can try other common forms of rodent prevention.

Next, inspect the interior for any signs of leaks, soft spots, or cracked seals. Fix anything now – problems only get worse over winter.

For the exterior, wash the RV from top to bottom. Clean the roof using products suitable for your roof type, and then closely inspect all seams, vents, and seals.

Reseal any problem areas with RV-grade sealant or Eternabond where appropriate. Once dry, apply an RV-dedicated waxing product or protectant to the sidewalls to help shield the finish during storage.

This final clean-and-inspect stage makes sure nothing deteriorates or attracts pests while your RV sits through the cold.

Step 13: Store your Motorhome or travel trailer properly

Alrighty – now your RV is winterized! With the winterizing process finished, the last step is to simply store your RV safely for winter.

Unless you’re parking in a dedicated RV storage location or lot, park your rig on a level surface, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks to prevent movement. Inflate your tires to the manufacturer’s recommended PSI and consider using Tire Saver Ramps (or plastic leveling blocks) to reduce flat-spotting during long-term storage.

Now, regarding storage practices, it’s better to close all the doors and windows, particularly to keep pests out. If you’d like to leave a roof vent cracked for airflow, install vent covers for further critter-proofing. Inside, remove perishables, open interior cabinets slightly for ventilation, and place moisture absorbers around your RV if you’re in a humid climate.

As a reminder, house batteries should be removed and stored separately if you’re in freezing temperatures. And keep them charged every 4–6 weeks as well, or leave them installed with a quality trickle charger. Finally, inspect the roof, seams, and exterior accessories one more time to be sure everything is sealed, dry, and secure before the RV sits through the winter.

Finally, cover your RV with a breathable cover. It needs to be a proper weatherproof RV-specific cover, not a tarp. Don’t skimp on this last storage step either: storing and covering your RV properly between the trips is just as important as on-the-road maintenance for your rig’s health

Further Considerations and Tips for First-Time Winterizers

• Do it once, document it forever. I.e., record how you winterize your RV, taking photos or videos of key spots or processes for next season. Things like the water heater bypass valves, low point drains, pump location, converter kit setup, and any hidden access panels. Future you will thank past you, trust me.
• Make your own “rig-specific” checklist for winterizing. Now two rigs are perfectly alike… So as you run through the process, jot down anything unique to your setup (extra valves, hidden access points, odd-sized plugs, that one fridge door that you just can’t even with anymore). Keep that custom RV winterization checklist with your owner’s manual so you can rip through the quirks a lot quicker next year.
• Label the mystery stuff now, not in spring. Similarly, on the planning ahead front, use painter’s tape or proper labels to tag things like “low point drains,” “water heater bypass valves,” and “fresh tank drain.”
• Note how much antifreeze you actually used. Try to track and write down how many gallons you went through and the brand/rating (e.g., “3 gallons, -50°F RV/marine antifreeze”). Next year, you can buy just the right amount instead of eyeballing it.
• Pick your day wisely. It’s way more ideal to winterize your RV on a day that’s above freezing and reasonably dry. Everything drains better, is less brittle, and you’re not blundering through with numb fingers either.
• Do a mid-winter walk-around. Even when fully winterized, it’s still smart to spot-check your RV every few weeks: look for sagging covers, heavy snow on the roof, signs of pests, low tires, and any structural issues around common leak points.
• Keep a separate note for spring. As you go, jot down any “don’t forget this when dewinterizing” items – like reinstalling filters, closing bypass valves, or re-tightening anything you loosened.

FAQs About Winterizing Campers

Got some last burning Qs about winterizing RVs for long-term storage? Let’s get some ice for that wound!

With winterizing wisdom. 🙂

Winterize Your Camper With Confidence!

Look, the first time you winterize your RV is the scariest. Particularly, the anxiety of waiting until spring to find out if you did it right!

But the truth is that winterizing an RV is a long, fiddly process – not hard. It’s like baking: it seems tricky, but if you follow the instructions methodically and practice a few times, you get the hang of it quick!

But it doesn’t matter whether you’ve got an old bomb, one of the finest rigs from the leading manufacturers of RVs, or even whether you’re winterizing a motorhome or travel trailer! I promise it’s more than doable. All it takes is a lil’ practice and a step-by-step winterizing list (i.e., this one!).

So even if the task seems daunting, don’t procrastinate because of your fear. Gather your winterizing; gather your RV gear. Just start on the first step, and the rest will follow naturally.

Oh, and as a final word of advice, the RVing community is full of good sorts! If you still find yourself facing a lot of doubt or uncertainty, don’t hesitate to ask for help from others around local RV campgrounds. Or even down in the comments here!

We all have to deal with knowing how to winterize our RVs annually…. And we’re all just happy to help 🙂